So you’ve decided to take that first step, but what is that first step? Getting the results your vegetable garden needs will require proper planning, care, and hard work. Remember to start small, and work up to more as you gain experience with growing your own food. Better to start slow, and not waste money on mediocre results.

First things first

Plant Hardiness Zone Map

The USDA has developed a Plant Hardiness Zone Map that divides North America into 10 numbered climatic zones. Zone 1 being the coldest, and Zone 10 being the warmest. Take a look at the map below to check what zone you live in.

Last and First Frost Dates

You also should learn your area’s last and first frost dates. Knowing your last frost date in the spring, and first frost date in the fall will help you determine the proper planting and harvesting times. You can also check the back of the seed packets you are planning on planting.

Soil pH and Fertility of your vegetable garden

Find out the pH and fertility of your soil. The soil’s acidity or alkalinity will influence the plant’s growth. The pH range is basically from 1.0 (very acidic) to 14.0 (very alkaline). A soil fertility test will show any imbalances in N-P-K levels that will need to be corrected.


Location of your vegetable garden

When deciding on a spot to plant your vegetable garden, look for a sunny spot with at least 6 hours of sunlight. An exception to direct sunlight is Agrivoltaic, which I will talk about in a separate blog post. Your site should also have good air circulation to help prevent disease and limit damage from late spring or early fall frosts. Good drainage, regardless of planting in the ground or in containers, is also a consideration, as most crops cannot tolerate wet, soggy soil. Trees should also be avoided, as they will draw a lot of water away from your plants. Lastly, try to locate your vegetable garden close to your house to make it more convenient to take care of it. Read more about Designing a Vegetable Garden here.


Selection of vegetables

Start thinking about the vegetables you want to grow, making a list of the ones you and your family like to eat most. Check seed catalogs for ideas, and write down any that you may want to try. Prioritize them to the ones you are most interested in. Note whether it is an annual or perennial, how much space it needs, how much sun it should have, the soil it grows best in, how much moisture it needs when to plant, and when to harvest.

Next, create a diagram of your vegetable garden, and where each of your crops will go. Use graph paper and exact measurements of garden and plant requirements. This will give you a good idea of how much you can plant, and help you to narrow down your selections.


Should you start with seeds or plants?

In general, root crops should be started from seed, and direct sowed into the garden. Beyond that, it is personal preference and experience that should guide the decision. Growing from seed will definitely start out cheaper than growing plants from your garden center, but in the beginning, those plants will be a quick start and easier to get started while you are getting experience.


Buying your seeds and plants

Regardless if you buy locally, or online, your seeds should be fresh and dated for the current year. The advantage of buying online is the vast selection and guidance that the seed company supplies. Be careful when buying plants locally, check for any insects, and reject any that look diseased or dried out.


Starting your seeds indoors

If you live in a cold climate, you will want to start your seeds indoors, or in a greenhouse of some sort. Start your seeds at least 6 to 8 weeks before they will be ready to set outside. Be sure to check the seed packet or the Plant Hardiness Map for the best dates to plant.


Buy Quality Garden tools

When you go to buy tools for your garden, it is best not to skimp on quality. Fiberglass handles vs wooden are the way to go in my opinion.

These are the basic tools you should have on hand to start;

  • Garden spade –
  • Digging fork
  • Hoe
  • Garden rake
  • Hand trowel
  • Pocket knife
  • Twine
  • Wooden stakes

Handy to have

  • Wheelbarrow
  • Pruners
  • Pitchfork
  • Garden hose
  • Hand sickle or scythe
  • Rototiller
  • Chipper/shredder
  • Sharpener

Soil Preparation for Your Vegetable Garden

Digging vegetable garden, prepping vegetable garden

Breaking ground

You of course will need to prep your garden area. If the area to be your garden is weedy, you will want to mow down the tall weeds, then either dig with a spade or rototill the entire area about a foot deep, and in different directions to make sure all clumps are broken up. After digging up, remove all weeds and roots, you don’t need any competition. Also, remove branches and rocks. Water the area and wait a week to repeat.

Improving the soil for your vegetable garden

Garden compost, organic compost

So, you have checked the pH and fertility of your soil and worked the area is to prep the soil to which will aerate it. You’ve waited a week, and now is when you will add any organic matter such as straw, grass clippings, or leaves. You can also add your own or store-bought compost. Next, you will want to adjust your soil’s pH based on the pH test results. Your basic goal is to have a pH of around 6.5. A pH higher than 6.5 means your soil is more alkaline, and below 6.5 it is more acidic. To adjust the pH, you will need to add either Limestone to raise your pH, or Sulphur to lower it. Amounts will vary based on your test results and the type of soil you have, sandy, loam, or clay. Be sure to retest the soil after each addition.

Based on your soil fertility results, you will probably need to add amendments to adjust the N-P-K, levels in your soil. A good commercial fertilizer usually can help. There are several organic amendments available that can directly help improve individual nutrient deficiencies.

Repeat the digging and removing of any unwanted materials.


Planting your seeds in your vegetable garden

planting vegetable seeds

When the time is right, follow the seed packet instructions for any seeds you do not plan to grow indoors, such as root crops, and direct plant seeds into your prepped garden. You can plant them in rows, or hills. Be sure to put a labeled marker near the seeds, and record on your calendar the date planted, and the approximate harvest date.


Transplanting Seedlings

At the appropriate time, start hardening off your seedlings, about a week before you plan on leaving them outside full-time. This involves setting the seedling out for about an hour in the shade the first and second day, about an hour in the sun the third day, and adding about an hour each day in the sun. The seedlings should be in a protected area from any strong winds for the first few days. Keep a close eye on the moisture of pots. After they are hardened off, they can be set in the ground and well-watered.


Preventing and Controlling Weeds

garden mulches, weed prevention

The best way to prevent and control weeds is to mulch around your plants. Mulch can be anything from black plastic to cardboard, leaves, hay, or bark. If you use plastic, keep in mind it will deteriorate over time, so plan to dispose of it at the end of each growing season. Pull weeds as they emerge, but be sure to pull the roots too, or the weeds will get harder to pull. You can also use a hoe to pull up weed seedlings, but you will need to hand-pull bigger weeds.


Feed your plants

natural fertilizers

When you first plant your seeds and transplants, it is a good idea to put a little compost or dry fertilizer in the hole. Dig the hole about 2 inches deeper than needed, add the fertilizer, add 2 inches of dirt, and plant your seeds or plants. As time goes on, your plants will benefit from the addition of liquid fertilizer about every 2 to 3 weeks. A few weeks into growing, you may want to repeat the soil test to see if there are any deficiencies that have popped up and correct them at that time.


Keeping your vegetable garden watered

garden hose, watering hose

When seeds and transplants are first planted, plan to water them every day for the first week. Be careful not to use a heavy setting on your hose, so as not to uproot seeds or plants. Morning is usually the best time of day to water. When watering, try not to get water on the leaves, as this can cause sunscald or spread diseases. Another option for using a hose is to set up drip irrigation.


Controlling Insects and Diseases

Beneficial Insects

The best line of defense in controlling pests and diseases and to have healthy growing conditions and disease-resistant plants. Seed catalogs should list cultivars that are disease-resistant, if not, move on to those that do. There are many products on the market to control pests and diseases, and there are natural methods also. Beneficial insects can be purchased, such as lacewings, and ladybugs. You can grow small, shallow-necked flowers to encourage them to stick around. Compost encourages beneficial creatures into your soil to help fight soil-borne plant diseases. Floating row covers, made of polypropylene, lets light and water in but keep insects out. Some herb brews have been known to repel pests from plants.


Keeping Four legged pests out of your vegetable garden

Garden fencing

Animals can be a major problem in your vegetable garden, like rabbits, raccoons, deer, goats (yes we have goats who love my garden), and chickens (yep, we have chickens). Having goats has taught me that I should not skimp on the quality of fencing, as they will go over, around, or through fencing if they can, to get to what they want. Deer and chickens can scale a 6′ fence, rabbits can fit through 4″ space, and goats will climb and destroy cheap fencing.

We use non-climb horse fencing, a 2″ x 4″ opening, but your situation will be different. I have used the deer webbing with success on the upper part of the fence, (because goats climb), and it does not rot like chicken wire will and is surprisingly strong. You can either dig down a foot if so desire to bury the fence, though I have used screw-in tent stakes with success with livestock fence.


Extending your growing season

black plastic mulch

If you live in northern climates, it is possible to extend your growing season if you desire. To start a little early, set out black plastic on your prepared soil to warm it up, and then set out your plants 2 weeks earlier than you would have originally, and cover them with a cloche to protect them from frost. To extend in the fall, cover the plants with plastic, blankets, or sheets to protect them from frost.


Harvesting your crops

Pay attention to your garden calendar to know when your crops should be ready to harvest, especially your root crops.


Saving seeds for next year

Saving Vegetable seeds

As you are harvesting some of your crops, you should save the seeds from your plants, especially the ones that grew well. Once you decide which plant grew the best from each crop, mark it, and let it go to seed. Be sure to store the seeds you collected in a dry sealed container until ready to use.